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Troubleshooting

Quick reference for the most common problems. Check here first before calling for help.


  1. Check the shore power connection — is the cord plugged in at both ends?
  2. Check the pedestal breaker — is it on?
  3. Check the main breaker in the camper’s breaker panel.
  4. Check the converter — is the indicator light on?
  • Outlets run on 120V shore power; lights run on 12V battery.
  • Check the outlet breaker in the breaker panel.
  • Check if the GFCI outlet (usually in the bathroom) has tripped — press the RESET button.
  • You may be on a low-amp site or sharing power.
  • Turn off other high-draw appliances (microwave, water heater electric element).
  • Check if the pedestal is actually 30-amp — some sites have 20-amp outlets.
  • Check for 12V loads left on (water pump, lights, vent fans).
  • The battery may be old and need replacement.
  • Check the converter is charging the battery when on shore power.

  1. Is the city water hose connected? Or is the water pump on?
  2. If using the pump — is the fresh water tank empty?
  3. Is the pump switch on?
  4. Check for a kinked hose.
  • There’s a leak somewhere in the system — check all faucets, connections, and under the camper.
  • The pump runs to maintain pressure — if it never stops, water is escaping somewhere.
  • The water heater tank is only 6 gallons — take shorter showers.
  • Run both propane and electric modes simultaneously for faster recovery.
  • Sanitize the fresh water tank — see Seasonal Maintenance.
  • Replace the water filter.
  • Check the anode rod in the water heater.

  1. Are the tank valves open (counter-clockwise)?
  2. Are the tanks empty? Check the gauge.
  3. Is there air in the lines? Try lighting 2–3 times to purge air.
  4. Did you just refill? Open a burner to bleed air from the new tank.
  1. Turn off all propane tanks immediately.
  2. Open all windows and doors.
  3. Exit the camper.
  4. Do not use any electrical switches.
  5. Call for help if the smell persists after ventilating.
  • The detector is near the floor (propane is heavier than air).
  • Check for actual leaks with soapy water on all connections — bubbles = leak.
  • The detector may be old and need replacement (replace every 5–7 years).

  1. Is it level? Absorption fridges need to be within 3° of level.
  2. Is the correct mode selected (AC/DC/LP)?
  3. Is there power/propane for the selected mode?
  4. Allow 4–8 hours for a warm fridge to reach temperature.

Fridge works on propane but not electric (or vice versa)

Section titled “Fridge works on propane but not electric (or vice versa)”
  • The heating element for that mode may be faulty.
  • Check the breaker for the AC mode.
  • Check propane supply for LP mode.

  • No water pressure — turn on the pump or connect city water.
  • Black tank is full — dump it.
  • Blade valve seal is dry — add water to the bowl.
  • Add black tank treatment.
  • Debris is caught in the valve.
  • Flush with extra water and use a tank treatment to break down debris.

  1. Check propane — tanks open and not empty?
  2. Try the thermostat again — set it 5° above current temp.
  3. Listen for the fan, then the igniter click. If no click, the igniter may need replacement.
  1. Is shore power connected?
  2. Check the A/C breaker.
  3. Clean the A/C filter (rinse with water).
  4. Give it 10–15 minutes — it takes time to cool the camper.

  • Slow down — sway is often caused by speed.
  • Check tongue weight — should be 10–15% of trailer weight.
  • Add a sway control device.
  • Check tire pressure on both tow vehicle and trailer.
  1. Check the brake controller in the tow vehicle — is it powered and set correctly?
  2. Check the 7-pin connector — is it fully plugged in?
  3. Check the breakaway battery on the trailer — it may be dead.

SituationAction
Gas leakExit camper, call 911 if needed
FireExit, call 911, use fire extinguisher only if safe
Electrical fireCut shore power first, then call 911
Stuck on roadCall roadside assistance (Good Sam, AAA RV)
MedicalCall 911